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Author Topic: APS/Ω Gas turbine bike build  (Read 394175 times)
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manta22
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« Reply #45 on: March 29, 2013, 03:41:59 PM »

No, you are right-- brazing chrome-moly is not recommended. It reduces its fatigue life. I read a study of that by Lockheed years ago. It is just fine for mild steel, though.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
saltwheels262
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« Reply #46 on: March 29, 2013, 03:46:10 PM »

the salt is going to get in places you didn't even know you had.
it will be everywhere. it's in the air.

keep the intakes plugged until you run.

it's been going on for over 60 years and the mill will survive.

Ok, so it is like fine dust blowing around?

What about during the run, some turbo vehicles run filterless with the intake high up in front. Are they still ingesting salt or is the air there free from particles? The compressor would show signs of wear on the inducer edges very soon if salt is present in the air.

I don't think it's a good idea to run without a filter.

there are some very fast metric turbo bikes that run air filters.

bf
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events -- made a 2 state change in ZIP codes

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007
saltwheels262
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« Reply #47 on: March 29, 2013, 04:16:57 PM »

Anders,
looking at your post in reply number 38 ; got me thinking you were running a turbo engine.
I forgot about your turbine.

is there even an air filter for that type engine?
are you going to run any type of ballistic shield around the turbine?

you have a very nice build going on.
good luck and ride safe.

franey
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events -- made a 2 state change in ZIP codes

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007
38flattie
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« Reply #48 on: March 29, 2013, 07:52:44 PM »

Wow! I don't know how I missed this build!

This build excites me more than my own. I've dreamed of jet cars and bikes since I was a little kid!

Good luck! cheers
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With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #49 on: March 30, 2013, 11:35:57 AM »

Anders,
looking at your post in reply number 38 ; got me thinking you were running a turbo engine.
I forgot about your turbine.

is there even an air filter for that type engine?
are you going to run any type of ballistic shield around the turbine?

you have a very nice build going on.
good luck and ride safe.

franey

Thanks! smiley

Industrial turbines often have air filters but since they are stationary weight and space is of no concern. For an engine this size I would need several m2 of filter area to avoid pressure loss, and the risk of ingestion of the filter material in case of a filter failure is probably greater than Foreign Object Damage with a cleverly placed air intake.

The engine itself is built to contain its parts in case of a burst compressor wheel, and I will make sure the fuel system cannot supply the engine enough fuel to overspeed. Some heat shielding will probably be a good idea though around the section between the gas producer and the power turbine, my knees would most likely catch fire otherwise... grin

Cheers!
/Anders
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #50 on: March 30, 2013, 11:37:25 AM »

Wow! I don't know how I missed this build!

This build excites me more than my own. I've dreamed of jet cars and bikes since I was a little kid!

Good luck! cheers

Glad you like it, hopefully I will get it overseas some day so you can see it in first person. smiley
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #51 on: March 30, 2013, 11:39:51 AM »

Part of the international flavor of this group, we get to know all the different words and spellings

I find myself spelling things differently here than an Australian forum

The salt is often slightly damp, but with a sometimes dusty surface , depending on traffic etc

we get very little salt in the bikes with front air intake , much less than the turbo with low intake and filter
 but still see signs of minor tip wear over over a couple of yrs, not sure if the foam rubber seal at the turbo intake is 100% either
potentially this is more of an issue than front air with a good front fender   

That sounds promising, my large fender will keep the salt stuck to the tyre from being thrown up in front of the intake. Another thing I don┤t need to worry about then, great news! smiley
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38flattie
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« Reply #52 on: March 30, 2013, 11:55:43 AM »

Wow! I don't know how I missed this build!

This build excites me more than my own. I've dreamed of jet cars and bikes since I was a little kid!

Good luck! cheers

Glad you like it, hopefully I will get it overseas some day so you can see it in first person. smiley

That would be very cool!
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With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #53 on: April 03, 2013, 02:36:43 PM »

Last night I got some random bits and pieces done, and today I┤ve talked with a local metal working shop named Fixit and they will cut splines on the gearbox output shaft so the front sprocket for the chain drive can be fitted to it.



With the shaft taken out of the gearbox I can start planning how to make the oil jets who will inject oil into the gear mesh and ball bearings, a large diameter return line will also be fitted to the bottom of the gearbox so the oil can return to the tank.



I have also started on some more struts for the front fairing, the fairing quality is kind of lousy so I need to force it into shape with the struts.



I have also made a battery mockup with the same dimensions as the Deka Dominator 51Ah battery I will get for the bike, it is a special total loss battery which is much more suited for this than a normal starter battery that leaves massive cranking amps but loses voltage much faster.



Cheers!
/Anders
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Captthundarr
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« Reply #54 on: April 03, 2013, 02:57:38 PM »

Build on my friend, as I have had asperations of building a turbine powered lakester/ line for one mile events grin
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8pack
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« Reply #55 on: April 03, 2013, 03:03:20 PM »

Anders,
looking at your post in reply number 38 ; got me thinking you were running a turbo engine.
I forgot about your turbine.

is there even an air filter for that type engine?
are you going to run any type of ballistic shield around the turbine?

you have a very nice build going on.
good luck and ride safe.

franey

Turbine ag planes run air filters (most use a filter with a Napa part # that is designed for trucks) or a person could use a setup kinda like a helicopter.
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charlie101
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« Reply #56 on: April 03, 2013, 03:07:21 PM »

In my layman point of view, I get the impression that you load the bike up with a lot of weight at the rear, there is significant lift with a motorcycle fairing at the front because of the general "hump back" shape and poor rear slip shape. I have no experience to really talk about it, and I can't judge in this case, but it would be interesting to hear a discussion on the forum about it. If that's the case that the bike end up too light at the front at speed, than you would need to have a front fairing that makes a lot of air resistance in order to push down the front.
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #57 on: April 03, 2013, 04:34:41 PM »

In my layman point of view, I get the impression that you load the bike up with a lot of weight at the rear, there is significant lift with a motorcycle fairing at the front because of the general "hump back" shape and poor rear slip shape. I have no experience to really talk about it, and I can't judge in this case, but it would be interesting to hear a discussion on the forum about it. If that's the case that the bike end up too light at the front at speed, than you would need to have a front fairing that makes a lot of air resistance in order to push down the front.

I hear you, unfortunately I am sort of hand cuffed since the two heaviest parts (battery and gearbox) cannot be placed anywhere else but where they are right now. What I can do is to add lead weights at the front to balance things out a bit.

I agree that it would be very interesting to hear the opinion of the experienced racers on this matter.

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saltwheels262
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« Reply #58 on: April 03, 2013, 06:08:47 PM »

I don't have any fairing experience, yet.
I have researched it from from Diff'rent fairing manufacturers.
and this has to do with stock fairings also.
      the fairing needs to be level with the bike and the ground.
      not pointed up - lift
      not pointed down - it will compress the front forks

when you get up to speed the bike should level out.

that weight@ the rear is good for traction. it's better to keep the weight as low as possible.
I wouldn't put much weight on a motorcycle front end.
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events -- made a 2 state change in ZIP codes

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007
maj
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« Reply #59 on: April 03, 2013, 09:03:50 PM »

Your front fairing looks to me like it will give downforce, there is no large frontal area for radiator and it does not curve around the wheel
 but rather diverts the air to the sides , and your underside will be turbulant so its not like your making a wing

another option for fairing strength is  few more layers of fibreglass inside the body will increase rigidity and reduce the need for extra bracing
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