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Author Topic: APS/Ω Gas turbine bike build  (Read 394194 times)
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #210 on: August 12, 2013, 02:54:40 PM »

Get to it, turbines are tons of fun! smiley

To sort things out a bit I wrote down all the different things that needs to be done before the bike is ready to run, it might look a lot but mostly they are minor jobs that can be done 2-3 of each workshop pass. Sorry for the crappy language. Smiley



After that I made the last wheel spacer so now the rear wheel is aligned and freely spinning.



Everything in place!



That was a couple of days ago, today I found an hour after the kids went to sleep and started working on the gearbox. I needed to make 6 M8 threaded holes so I could bolt the freepower housing and gearbox together. If I hadn´t drilled some of the freepower housing holes slightly wrong 6 months ago I could have done just that, now I need to grind them a bit for all six bolts to fit.



Threading the shaft tunnel, cast iron is a bit strange to work with since it doesen´t produce swarfs like ordinary steel but rather dust...



After that I made the cover for the shaft bearing right behind the power turbine wheel, first I thought about making it in graphite but since I don´t know if it might send particles into the bearing and possibly wreck it I chose to make it in steel instead. Here I am threading the hole for the stop screw.



Here we have the cover (there must be a more correct name for it) and the stop screw before they were fitted.



And here they are in place.



Cheers!
/Anders
« Last Edit: August 12, 2013, 02:56:53 PM by Mobacken Racing » Logged
Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #211 on: August 13, 2013, 02:31:32 PM »

During my little girls day sleep I fixed the faulty power turbine housing holes in the mill to get all 6 M8 bolts to fit.



Later this night when the Dodge russian athletics was all over the tv I headed out to the shed to make some minor adjustments to the power turbine housing to get a decent fit for the exhaust.



After that I welded the previously spot welded exhaust...



...and assembled the shaft tunnel, turbine housing and exhaust!



As a side note I´ve bought a WP9 tig torch which is much smaller than the old WP27 that came with the tig welder, it is a dream to weld with and you can see the difference in size in the pic below.



Cheers!
/Anders
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #212 on: August 14, 2013, 12:25:09 AM »

Anders, make sure someone takes a little video of that first run for u-tube.  That is quite the project.  It looks good. 
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #213 on: August 14, 2013, 02:32:39 AM »

Anders, make sure someone takes a little video of that first run for u-tube.  That is quite the project.  It looks good. 

Thanks! Rest assured that everything will be captured on video and put on youtube.
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DND
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« Reply #214 on: August 14, 2013, 07:43:03 AM »

Hi Anders

They used to make a little cap for the collet instead of that short tapered one on the small torch handle, maybe they still do?

It did not stick up any higher than the back of the handle, for getting down into holes etc

Looking good, G Don
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #215 on: August 14, 2013, 10:51:19 AM »

Hi Anders

They used to make a little cap for the collet instead of that short tapered one on the small torch handle, maybe they still do?

It did not stick up any higher than the back of the handle, for getting down into holes etc

Looking good, G Don

I have one of those, they are great for welding inside pipes etc but for regular welding I prefer the longer caps since they can house longer electrodes.

Thanks!
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« Reply #216 on: August 14, 2013, 02:51:26 PM »

I hear ya, the way I used to ' Dip The Wick ' I had them lined up like cordwood in a little wood block

G Don
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #217 on: August 14, 2013, 03:55:25 PM »

After 10 years of practice it can actually take some time before I need to resharpen the electrode, unless I skip cleaning up the metal before I start welding of course... smiley

More russian athletics on the TV = a trip out to the workshop. This time I finished two of the smaller jobs on the list in less than an hour.



Fitting a temp probe to the inter turbine duct, it was fitted on the bottom so it wouldn´t be in the way for the heat shielding jacket I will make for the power turbine section later.



Here you can see the probe inside the duct.



After that I placed the entire power turbine section on the workbench, it has become quite a large piece. Heavy as well thanks to the cast iron gearbox, lucky for me that weight isn´t an issue in landspeed racing. Smiley



The other minor job was to shorten the handlebars a bit, as you might have noticed they were longer than needed and now was the perfect time to fix that.



This looks a bit better, now I only have to order a pair of shorter brake levers to complete the new look. Does anyone know just how serious the rule about a 1/2" (if I remember correct) ball at the end of the handlebar levers is? Can I use those short and fancy Ebay levers with a hollow cylinder type of ball at the end instead or does it for some obscure reason have to be exactly a 1/2" perfectly round ball?



Cheers!
/Anders
« Last Edit: August 14, 2013, 03:57:29 PM by Mobacken Racing » Logged
wobblywalrus
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« Reply #218 on: August 15, 2013, 12:27:50 AM »

Anders, "shorty" dirt bike control levers work great.  You can get them at places that sell motocross bikes.  Get the more expensive pro grade forged ones.  They bend rather than fracture when you hit the deck.  The cheap cast ones break.   
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manta22
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« Reply #219 on: August 15, 2013, 09:51:16 AM »

"More russian athletics on the TV = a trip out to the workshop."

It sounds like Sweden's TV hasn't changed much since I was in Stockholm quite a few years ago-- the only thing on TV then was a re-run of "Sanford and Son". I mentioned this to a friend and he said "if you think this is bad, take a look at Norwegian TV!"  rolleyes

Regards, Neil   Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #220 on: August 16, 2013, 02:40:14 AM »

Anders, "shorty" dirt bike control levers work great.  You can get them at places that sell motocross bikes.  Get the more expensive pro grade forged ones.  They bend rather than fracture when you hit the deck.  The cheap cast ones break.   

Great news! The ones I am interested in are cnc milled from 6061 T6 aluminum so they should be ok.

"More russian athletics on the TV = a trip out to the workshop."

It sounds like Sweden's TV hasn't changed much since I was in Stockholm quite a few years ago-- the only thing on TV then was a re-run of "Sanford and Son". I mentioned this to a friend and he said "if you think this is bad, take a look at Norwegian TV!"  rolleyes

Regards, Neil   Tucson, AZ

On the Swedish channels it is mostly news and brittish criminal dramas, I very rarely watch tv so I can´t say for sure if it is better or worse now than for 10 years ago. Otherwise it is mostly crappy american series like Friends and 2 1/2 men people look at...

Last night started off by making a quick release mount for the air intake.



After that I cleaned up the work bench, spit in my hands and removed everything from the air intake in order to take it out of the frame.



It became quite a pile on my newly cleaned up bench.



With the air intake out of the frame I could do the two things on the list that concerned it, the heftiest one was to weld it so that was what I did first.



After a while it looked like this, a bit more rigid now I assume. Smiley



The second and last job on the air intake was to add an underpressure gauge to it so I can see if the engine is starved of air at higher revs, without that gauge I have no idea if I should blame an undersized powerturbine NGV or the intake in case the exhaust temps go through the roof during the test run.



Ready to be welded to the air intake.



And here it is in place right next to the oil regulator and perfectly visible for the rider.



Finally a pic with the gauge added.



Cheers!
/Anders
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #221 on: August 16, 2013, 03:22:58 PM »

Is that a sleeved or unsleeved butt weld on the top tube 4'' back from the steering head?
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #222 on: August 16, 2013, 04:32:46 PM »

Unsleeved, is that a problem?
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manta22
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« Reply #223 on: August 16, 2013, 05:33:32 PM »

It would be much better sleeved, Anders. A sleeve inside or, better- outside, with angled or fish-mouth cut ends will give you far more strength than a simple butt weld. If you can put two holes in the sleeve and also do rosette welds, so much the better.

Angled or fish-mouth cut ends distribute the tensile stress over a longer length than a straight cut end. This is better for fatigue resistance.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #224 on: August 17, 2013, 01:57:03 AM »

An inside sleeve would be easiest but I don´t want to cut the frame so I have to fit an external sleeve instead. The air intake mounts sort of restricts the length of the sleeve in one direction but I guess even a short one is better than no one at all.

Will do it during the winter when I finish welding the frame, thanks for suggesting it. I wouldn´t want a weld around the steering head to crack during a run...
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