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Author Topic: APS/Ω Gas turbine bike build  (Read 394239 times)
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1470 on: November 16, 2016, 01:46:55 AM »

I can´t look at it while riding the bike anyway.

It might come in handy when it is on a stand during a test fire.

Franey

Not really, the water injection is only meant to be activated above 2 bar boost pressure. I can´t run the bike that hard in the pits since the temps get too high when the rear wheel isn´t spinning.
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1471 on: November 16, 2016, 05:58:25 PM »

While I am waiting for the new throttle and stuff to arrive I´ll get some work done on JU-02, it was a while since I last worked on it now.

First out for the evening was to cut the thick walled stainless pipe to the correct length, it will be used as the engine cover.



After that I continued where I left off, with the oil drain. I had cut a couple of stainless pipes to length so after aligning them I welded them together. No fancy radiuses on the drain line unfortunately since the combustor will be placed just outside it.



Something I hadn´t figured out earlier was how to route the drain line out through the engine cover without any oil or air leaks, but now I figured out a pretty neat solution in my humble opinion.



The idea is to have the drain pipe split in two where the inner pipe is the one on the picture above and the outer one in inserted through a hole in the casing with an air tight flange welded to it. The connection between the two pipe ends will be made with the following contraption, an O-ringed coupling that allows the outer pipe to slip into the inner pipe where the O-ring seals them together so no oil can leak out or air leak in.



Here are the two coupling halves with the O-ring in place.



Perhaps the picture gets a bit clearer now, the foremost pipe end will seal inside the O-ring which is flexible enough to allow for a certain degree of misalignment.



Here the pipes are fitted together, I just need to make some sort of bracket for the internal oil line so it will stay in place but still allow for some heat expansion.



Cheers!
/Anders
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manta22
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« Reply #1472 on: November 16, 2016, 07:09:55 PM »

That's a clever solution, Anders.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #1473 on: November 16, 2016, 08:06:38 PM »

Anders, what type of welder do you use for all of that intricate work?
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1474 on: November 17, 2016, 02:58:13 AM »

Thanks!

I use a 160A AC/DC tig welder, nothing fancy. It is singing on its last verse since it has started acting a bit strange. Sometimes it suddenly changes to stick welding mode.
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1475 on: November 19, 2016, 03:41:20 PM »

I continue working on JU-02, the project of the day was the oil pressure line. I bent a 10mm stainless pipe and welded it to the threaded shaft tunnel plug I made earlier.



Then I started making the rest of the oil line out of 253MA, a bit overkill perhaps but I had a suitable piece of material laying around.



Turned and treaded with M10x1.0.



Time for a group picture! Smiley



I drilled one of the front cover holes to 10mm for the oil pipe, after some grinding it looked like this.



The picture is crap but at least you can see the AN6 fitting that screws onto the oil line from the outside.



Welded! Smiley



Cheers!
/Anders
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Kiwi Paul
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« Reply #1476 on: November 20, 2016, 08:11:28 PM »

Anders....Don`t forget that all welders accumulate dust and stuff in their internals. I would take the covers off, check all the internal connections and carefully run the air gun over the interior to blow it off and clean it. I have to do this to my Tig machine at least once a year,but if you have done it lately, it may be time for another machine, as you suspect...
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1477 on: November 22, 2016, 04:57:46 PM »

Anders....Don`t forget that all welders accumulate dust and stuff in their internals. I would take the covers off, check all the internal connections and carefully run the air gun over the interior to blow it off and clean it. I have to do this to my Tig machine at least once a year,but if you have done it lately, it may be time for another machine, as you suspect...

When I pulled the cover off the welder there was a millimeter of steel dust covering everything inside, it might very well be the reason why is has started to act strange lately.
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1478 on: November 22, 2016, 04:59:26 PM »

With my daughters asleep and Anna off to aerobic class I went to the workshop to fit the engine casing to the compressor cover.



Turning in progress. (Turning is a silly name for it, I used to call it lathing back when I didn´t know better. If you mill with a mill common sense told me that you lathe with a lathe) grin



A loose press fit. Perfect!



I also cut a groove for a 5mm silicone o-ring.



I have decided to add a number of M6 screws in front of the o-ring, securing the engine cover to the cast compressor housing. With an exposed rear wall area of 630cm2 and a max pressure of 4kg/cm2 there will be 2.5 tons trying to split the engine in two! shocked



I assembled the engine to take a look on how everything fit together and to put it aside for a while, the electric bike throttle has arrived so I can start wiring up the bike now.



Cheers!
/Anders
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1479 on: November 23, 2016, 05:15:01 PM »

The throttle arrived yesterday, finally! The first time I ordered it the seller and FedEx messed up and the throttle was returned to the US but this time I got the package. Here it is next to the Arduino board and stuff needed to build the PWM controller, I will make a special one that regulates the positive signal and not the earth.

This way the pump will shut down instead of run flat out in case the pump casing is grounded or the PWM fails, I had a very exciting start last summer when the oil filter had moved and grounded the fuel pump, long roaring flames from the exhaust only centimeters from my leg... Smiley



It fits like a glove and has a very high quality feel to it, much shorter stroke than my old homemade electric throttle plus it has a micro switch that activates when the throttle is turned from idle. I think I´l be able to find use of that function somehow.



I´ve modeled a box for the PWM controller and it is being 3D-printed as I write, 8+ hours of printing time so I´ll check in on it tomorrow morning and see how it turned out.



A box for the spark ignition was modeled with the same design, I´ll print it tomorrow.



Cheers!
/Anders
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rd400f
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« Reply #1480 on: November 23, 2016, 06:08:29 PM »

Hi
Could you share a link to the throttle makers...pretty please grin
thanks
Richard
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1481 on: November 24, 2016, 12:05:49 AM »

Hi
Could you share a link to the throttle makers...pretty please grin
thanks
Richard

Ok, since you ask so nicely.  smiley

http://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/throttles/twist-action
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grumm441
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« Reply #1482 on: November 24, 2016, 03:27:18 AM »



Turning in progress. (Turning is a silly name for it, I used to call it lathing back when I didn´t know better. If you mill with a mill common sense told me that you lathe with a lathe) grin



Cheers!
/Anders

Yep
we call it Lathing in our shop in Australia as well
G
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Ron Gibson
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« Reply #1483 on: November 24, 2016, 09:17:43 AM »

Confusing terms ? IIRC, only been 59 years since wood (what is wood?) shop. I think you "turn" wood on a wood lathe and end up with turnings as the product. However we're not talking about wood. YMMV. grin grin

Ron
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Stainless1
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« Reply #1484 on: November 24, 2016, 12:34:49 PM »

Ya Ron, you may be a little past your "talking about wood" prime

Happy Thanksgiving
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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