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Author Topic: EV1 build  (Read 12047 times)
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JackD
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« Reply #15 on: April 29, 2006, 07:02:55 PM »

Electric vehicles are properly classified by DB.
The Sport Compact bunch have DB Drags all the time
 and you need more room for the crowd than the entries.
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« Reply #16 on: April 29, 2006, 07:21:30 PM »

Elvee,
I hate to keep promo-ing this book but get a copy of "The Leading Edge" by Goro Tamai and I think that you my look at you design differently. Like your sketch and that is exactly where we all begin. When you have very limited horse power then everything is aero.

Rex
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EVLEE
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« Reply #17 on: April 30, 2006, 12:24:39 AM »

At the moment my critical mass is about weight and how much power I can get ,How to package it  with the least frontal area and lowest drag possible. I will get and read ,The Leading Edge. I like having the driver right behind the front wheels for view,short steering wheel shaft,and easy running of the shifter back to the transaxle.(like it normally is ran) If I can put batteries behind the driver and some more behind the rear wheels .I think that would help traction.I also want to have a very fine trailing edge similar to EZ-HOOKs tail(with the flaps that open to let the parrachute out.I would like to have more of a rounded body than the Buckeye Bullet ,Lightning Rod or White Lightning.With the driver at the rear it seams to me that those cars are just releasing to much turbulence off the back of the car.(narrowing the back of the car to quickly and losing laminar flow at a very critical place on the body?? Maybe it is just me?? Right now I just spittin in the wind and see where each idea lands. I would like to be under 4 sq.ft. frontal area. and have a CD  of around .100  I think I will only be able to carry 12 x  900amp,12 volt batteries running a 144 volt  DC motor.
 I would like to run 26x4.5 Goodyears on the rear and  21x5 Goodyears on the front. Well it is off to half.com to buy The Leading Edge !!
                Night all Lee wink
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #18 on: April 30, 2006, 02:37:11 AM »

Hey Lee
....don't operate heavy machinery or sign any legal documentation after you've been reading Tamai's book , you may be best doing it with a "buddy" in case you drop off and drown in your own drool , it's real heavy going ....good luck.
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Sumner
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« Reply #19 on: April 30, 2006, 06:07:42 PM »

Quote from: Dr Goggles
Hey Lee
....don't operate heavy machinery or sign any legal documentation after you've been reading Tamai's book , you may be best doing it with a "buddy" in case you drop off and drown in your own drool , it's real heavy going ....good luck.


Hey Doc that book is like reading a comic book Cool , nothing to it if you have a PHD in math and physics Cheesy .  I can't get through most of the formulas, but the summaries at the ends of the chapters are a little easier.  It is a good book though and I've picked up some things I would have done differently and hope that it helps me.

Ok Lee I have some comments on your drawings.  Hope you have a thick skin and as always these are only my views and suggestions and it is "your" car.

I think you will have plenty of traction if all your weight (motor/batteries) is ahead of the rear axle, so on the first picture I would move the back batteries forward or will the electric motor run in either direction?  If so could you turn the motor/transaxle around so the motor was behind the axle.  Now I would only recommend that if the motor is lighter than the batteries you were going to put back there.  The weight forward is going to help keep your center of gravity ahead of your center of pressure.

I like the second car but think the area for the driver is optimistically small/short.  You have to package the front axle and tires in there and that looks like it would only leave about 5 feet for the driver and if the car is only 2 foot tall (your scale) you are going to need at least the drivers height, plus some for the cage.  I've tried to get the height of my car as low as possible and a 30 inch height (not including ground clearance) has been about as low as I can seem to get and still provide helmet clearance under the top roll bar and the bars under me at the bottom of the car and still be able to see down the track with my head inclined and I'm not too large.  I think Rick's red streamliner (Costella body) might be under 2 feet, but I'm not sure.

Be sure and remember room for the fire extinguishers.  Plan for about a 6 inch by 3 foot tube for one chute.

Since these are plan views only it is a little hard to comment on aero at this point.

It is good to see you getting started and you have to start somewhere.  Are you going to speed week this year?  It really helps to look at the cars.  Maybe you have already been.

c ya, Sum
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JackD
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« Reply #20 on: April 30, 2006, 06:31:27 PM »

An early pioneer in Drags and LSR he was asked in a interview why he got to drive so many different cars. His answer was because he was relatively small. He fit where builders could not.
You should not build the drivers space so small as to take the range of motion to the extreme. Your restraint system can't protect you if your head,neck, and legs are at their limit already. wink
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« Reply #21 on: May 06, 2006, 06:27:12 PM »

I am now sure I will be able to run 14 batteries of 33 lbs. each.The first time out I think I will just try to beat the record of 132mph..I would like to go at least 175mph average.so I will save weight by not running a parachute for now. I can Fine tune the car for later runs above 175mph and run a parachute then.
                    Lee
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« Reply #22 on: June 06, 2006, 11:35:10 PM »

Getting a lot of info and help in selecting the right motor and Battery combo.
 I am still thinking of not running suspension on one or both ends?? any comments on that idea?? Cheesy  If I do it will be Mono coil-over Fox shocks so I can change the springs and ride height if needed.will cost me a battery or 2 maybe ?
                     Lee Cheesy
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« Reply #23 on: June 07, 2006, 02:21:15 PM »

Lee,

the question is, how hard can the batteries hit from the rough salt, before they are damaged. If you got no suspension, it could be that the salt kick the batteries function out......
The suspension cost you weight and space - but if it's necessary to get the right performance from the batteries - you better think about.

By the way, can you get me the measurements from your front and rear tire - what I mean - the diameter of the tire, how wide, wheel and rim size
- I like to check this with my concept - if it would be feasable with my idea.

Also the size of the batteries, how it will match inside the frame - to give you the idea how the rough dimensions will work.

Thanks in advance

Best wishes
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Pork Pie

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EVLEE
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« Reply #24 on: June 12, 2006, 10:03:18 AM »

Front tires are 21 inches x 5 inches on 15 inch rims
   Rears tires are  26 inches x 4.5 inches on 15 inch rims

  Battery size is 6.5 inches wide x 11 inches long x 8 inches tall weight 33lbs.

                          I hope this helps  Lee
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EVLEE
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« Reply #25 on: July 18, 2006, 09:29:45 AM »

Bill Lyon
 Former Goodyear Tire Engineer,currant TRC(Transportation Research Center in Ohio)Engineer and friend has enthusiastically decided to help with my little project!! It only took a few pints of Killian's !!! Bill has worked on and advised on a few Bonneville projects .
 cheesy  Lee
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Reverend Hedgash
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« Reply #26 on: July 18, 2006, 08:29:42 PM »

Great to hear the project team grows, nothing like having someone else's commitment to spur on your own.

Any chance of seeing more drawings, sketches, ideas?

Reverend H+
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EVLEE
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« Reply #27 on: July 19, 2006, 08:13:12 AM »

yes there is always a chance !!
 Check out the bottom of page one for first ideas
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LittleLiner
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« Reply #28 on: July 19, 2006, 05:20:09 PM »

There are some guys in Florida that are running a twin engine (motor?) electric powered Subaru Impreza.  This is a serious, for-real deal and they have been doing well racing the car in SCCA events.  You may find their choice of batteries of interest because of their size, shape and weight.  They get the batteries from Kokam.  They ain?t cheap but you may find a battery like that will give you a lot of flexibility with the size and shape of your streamliner.   Pound for pound they appear to ideal for what you are attempting.  http://www.proev.com/P1News.htm will get you into their site.  There are links to more info on the batteries.
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« Reply #29 on: July 19, 2006, 07:21:18 PM »

EvLee
Kokams look like the answer- epecially for the 500 kg record.

 Energy Density!!!

Eyeball ran Hawker Energy off the shelf and was probably built for under 100K.

Dempsey used a grillion radio controled slot car type batteries and Coconi's controller and probably spent a qurter mil.

Impossible to equate Ohio State's budget 'cause of corporate help, etc.- and even though I witnessed the record, they kept covering things up in the pits re: batteries and controls!

It all boils down to "How much do you want to spend to fulfill your dream?"

Did you ever contact Don Arivett? He can avoid you making mistakes!
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5 mph in pit area (clothed)
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