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Author Topic: Build Diary  (Read 13089 times)
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RICK
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« Reply #15 on: April 19, 2006, 08:35:45 AM »

Wanting the best of all worlds, I'm trying to build a front with as much caster adjustment as possible.  Something like 15 to 18 degrees for tracking true at high speed, but then be able to turn it down to around 3 to 5 so I can turn it around while crusin the fair grounds. I made the upper control arm mount so that they can slide front to back in their mounting tube. Camber adjustments will be made by threading the poly bushed rodend in or out. I've got some coil-over shocks from an old project around here ,,,,somewhere. Maybe today would be a good day pick-up my mess and try to find some of those part-n-pieces I've been hiding all these years?


   thanks for lookin       RICK
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terry russell
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« Reply #16 on: April 19, 2006, 06:12:53 PM »

Keep at it . I enjoy seeing,hearing about what others are doing/building.
And I learn more every time. ( I need all the help I can get). That is one bad a. car. Terry
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RICK
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« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2006, 09:18:17 PM »

Next installment. Pretty much have the frt suspension figured out,,,time to move to the rear. A couple years ago on a rainy weekend I tryed to make my own rear end housing out of scrap 4130 tube and sheet pieces that I had laying around. After sitting inthe corner of the shop for years it started to rust pretty good. I decided to either use it or pitch it.

I'm gonna use it.
   I squared it up, and mounted some brakes....with a rear park brake caliper.        Man that thing got rusty on me.
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RICK
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« Reply #18 on: April 25, 2006, 09:32:13 PM »

Got to do somthing to get rid of that rust!

 After I got all my brackets glued on,,,I washed it off and out with some acid to eat off the rust. Then I took it to the far end of my driveway[ or as far as my garden hose would reach] and pressure washed and neutralized it. Look like brand new metal,,,,but,

  Before I could get it back and dry it off or oil it up,,,that chrome moly stuff oxidizes so fast.
  At least it not heavy pitted rust and only 'surface' rusy now. Should clean off with a scothbrite.

         Dodge that humidity!

 thanks  RICK
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RICK
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« Reply #19 on: May 03, 2006, 09:37:34 AM »

Over the weekend I cut about 3 inches out of the roof. Then I screwed up [in a hurry] and put it back on. I should have bent and welded up the roll cage when I had it off!
  I got the floor and fire wall in, most the stuff is just 'tacked' in place so I can be sure it all fits. Still need to decide which rear carrier to use. The whole idea when I started this adventure was to use what I already had, and to fabricate the rest,,,,,,within limits.
  After reading the rule book again, I think my frame does'nt hang down low enough from the door frt to rear wheel? might be a good place for a weight bar /ballast?
  Last night I installed the door glass,,,inspired by 'fastnlo' I put them on power regulators. Now I'm thinking about A/C,,,,,it gets hot in August.

  thanks RICK
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #20 on: May 03, 2006, 11:23:06 AM »

Rick:

There's a product I've heard nothing but good things about although I haven't used it myself. It's called Gibbs Brand Penetrant. It apparently breaks down rust, preserves the surface and you can paint right over it. It's probably worth a try for the few bucks investment and if it works as well as all its proponents claim you can let us all know.

Pete
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« Reply #21 on: May 05, 2006, 02:47:28 AM »

Check out Gibbs at www.roadsters.com as he is a dealer
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RICK
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« Reply #22 on: May 10, 2006, 05:19:35 PM »

I'm thinking that I've got all my differential whoa's behind me now.[no pun] The biggest problem is probally that its chromemoly, that stuff gets rusty if it gets cloudy outside. Anyhow,,,,,,,,I got some stuff off the shelf at the local hardeware store in a pump spray, RUSTAWAY or RUST-B-GONE, I don't rember the exact name, I got in a hurry and didn't have time to send off for the good stuff. It seems that one of my biggest hurdles is that living out in the boonies, if I need anykind of special part, its a 2 hour drive.,,,,,,rant rant
 Sorry.
 So I got the rear end hung. I had some extra Jerry Bickle 4 Link brackets, threaded some 1 in. x.188 wall to make the tubes. I do need to remember to drill a vent hole, and figure out some kind of 'safety' strap for the link bars? Any ideas?
  Also,,any thoughts on interior color? I know morton white on the outside is a no no.But some guys like the inside light, bright, so they can see stuff inside the car. Others say paint it dark  and dull, keep the reflections down?
 I checked out my cabinet of leftover/extra paint. I've got a lot of shades of red and yellow, not enough of any one to paint a car.Thinking of throwing them all together. Orange.

 Let me know what you think. Thanks   RICK
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Sumner
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« Reply #23 on: May 10, 2006, 06:17:07 PM »

Hey Rick you are getting a lot done.  Hope you make it this year.

I see you aren't too far from where I grew up, north St. Louis county.  I was in Missouri a couple weeks ago to see my mom, but she is the other side of the state in Branson.

Oh yeah, the color.  Orange sounds good to me and looks good on the salt Smiley .

c ya in August,

Sum
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RICK
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« Reply #24 on: May 10, 2006, 09:57:29 PM »

Sum,   McCluer 75.


     RICK
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« Reply #25 on: May 10, 2006, 11:32:10 PM »

Quote from: RICK
Sum,   McCluer 75.
     RICK


I went there when it first opened in Jr. High and graduated from the High School in '62.  I think we might have been one of the last classes there and then it became a Jr. High if I remember right.  I grew up about 1/4 mile off of Hudson rd. (unincorporated then, but annexed by Ferguson later).

When I was about 14 my mom was on the school board and I think McCluer was the superintendent or ex-superintendent, and I went quail hunting on his farm, somewhere west of St. Louis.  He wasn't well so I went by myself with his dogs and an Ithaca 28 gauge he lent me.  I was in heaven, but afraid I might accidentally shoot one of the dogs.  Well the dogs and the quail all survived the day Smiley .

c ya in August,

Sum
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RICK
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« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2006, 06:51:21 AM »

NO WAY!!!!! How bizarre! Sum, I grew up about a 1/2 mile from there. Sum, I'll send you a PM.

  Mean while,,,anybody got any ideas on a clean method of 'safety looping' those 4 link bars or suggestions on interior color?


     Thanks RICK
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« Reply #27 on: May 11, 2006, 04:36:09 PM »

As for interior color, we used two-part black bedliner paint on our roadster.  It seals up stuff, is durable, and covers ugly oops pretty well.  Non reflective to a degree, too.  The commercially-applied stuff is the best, but the do-it-yourself stuff has lasted and held up pretty well.
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #28 on: May 18, 2006, 11:01:07 PM »

Quote from: RICK
Got to do somthing to get rid of that rust!

 
         Dodge that humidity!

 thanks  RICK


Agricultural or chemical supply companies sell phosphoric acid at higher concentrations for a fraction of the price that the "relabelled" rust products do....I always use Sodium bicarbonate to neutralize after reduction which gives a nice clean finish ........never tried it on 4130 .I steer away from anything that you put on and leave there because you'll never know if the reaction is complete or the surface pH neutral but more importantly you can't  wire brush or sand it and removing all the impurities from the surface is the only way to make sure you won't be doing the same job next year..I reckon that stuff is for wrought iron and little else . Sounds wierd but a molasses tank is pretty hard to beat.A friend said once "and they're so quick " ....I said " na it's been in there for weeks " to which he replied " yeah and all you had to do was put it in there ."....he's right .it's the easiest and least time consuming but you need to have your gig organised to take advantage of it.
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« Reply #29 on: May 19, 2006, 08:56:23 AM »

German tanks in WW II used to paint the inside light blue (even lighter than Petty blue).  Probably to make them more cheerful and homey.
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