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Author Topic: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC  (Read 26645 times)
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swackerle
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« Reply #15 on: April 18, 2012, 02:09:02 AM »

I'd love to see pics of you're model t, it would be interesting to compare the two.  Sorry to say though, most of the chopped sections have been added to other parts of the body to take care of other rusted areas.  If you need some help with posting pics, just let me know and I can help you through it.  Its actually quite simple once you get the hang of it.  Send me an email or a pm and I can walk you through it in.
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zenndog
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« Reply #16 on: April 19, 2012, 03:13:58 PM »

More Pics from both of you guys please smiley. I really love T's
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DND
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« Reply #17 on: April 20, 2012, 08:09:02 AM »

Yes more pics, i have been a T nut too since my Dads hot rod in the 30's was a 25'T , had a Fronty Head - cam - oil pressure to the drilled crank - lowered with buffalo wire wheels and 106 mph at the lakes.

Looking forward to seeing your T coupe take shape.

Don
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Kiwi Paul
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« Reply #18 on: April 20, 2012, 10:17:20 PM »

I`ll try. I have to get two customer cars out of the Shop next week, hopefully then I can maneuver the T into a position where I can wield the Camera... grin
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swackerle
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« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2012, 07:12:47 PM »

Sorry for the delay, lots of measuring, twice, three times.not much progress over the past week or so.  But I do have some pics to share.

I began work on the front end, I got it at the height I want and its tacked in place right now, nothing is permanent just yet.



Do anyone know A)what the max castor allowed is? B)have any recommendations for an appropriate 200mph castor angle?

Also starting to mock up the roll cage.  My dad helped me make the wood pieces.  20 bucks instead of a few hundred if I mess up the wood, he is a very clever guy.





That's all for now, I got lots of work left to do I know, but if I put in a little every day.  I should be able to make it in August.

-Sam W

« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 10:51:45 PM by swackerle » Logged
55chevr
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« Reply #20 on: April 26, 2012, 10:09:36 PM »

I used EMT tubing to bend up a pattern.   Cheap and easy ...
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swackerle
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« Reply #21 on: April 27, 2012, 02:59:11 AM »

"caster" angle, not "castor".  Sorry about that.
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Tman
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« Reply #22 on: April 27, 2012, 09:03:04 AM »

Your Camber looks backwards, is that axle above the frame?

As for Caster you will find it all over the board. From Zero degrees to 20 degrees. I am in this decision phase myself right now.
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« Reply #23 on: April 27, 2012, 10:12:06 AM »

I agree your spidles look upside down.  What are the spindles from?
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swackerle
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« Reply #24 on: April 27, 2012, 11:27:14 AM »

The spindles are off of a 1960 ford truck and came with about 10 degrees of caster built in.  I had to compensate on the axle to get the caster at 0.  I am going to put some weight on it and see if it flops to either side, I can always flip it over so the kingpin holders are leaning the other way.  And the axle is above the frame, that's how it will be mounted to get the belly pan as low to the ground as I can.
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #25 on: April 27, 2012, 12:16:39 PM »

That isn't caster that's built in, that's king pin inclination and the kingpins should be closer at the top than the bottom. Caster is fore and aft inclination. When the pins lean back that is positive caster. Camber refers to the angle of the wheels. When they lean in at the top that is negative camber. Conventionally you would have negative camber and positive caster. Everything else has been tried at some point. The car will be dangerous if you leave the kingpins pointing outward at the top.

Pete
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jdincau
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« Reply #26 on: April 27, 2012, 02:12:00 PM »

And if you search for "scrub radius" on this board you will lean that a line extending the king pin centerline should pass through the spot on the ground where the center of the front wheel contact patch sits.
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« Reply #27 on: April 27, 2012, 05:42:49 PM »

Doug Odom recomends 5-6 degs max  remember circle track guys use caster to weight jack coming of the corners---Peter Jack has some post on the subject it you need to read before you set it up!!!!
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swackerle
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« Reply #28 on: April 27, 2012, 06:44:45 PM »

After some more research and a good conversation, here is front end version 2.0, now with proper scrub radius!



It's still not finalized, but with the proper backspacing on the wheels, I should have the scrub radius aimed right at the center of the tread on each tire.  If I did my math right, the tread width will be 45 inches.  The caster has been set to about 6 degrees but that can change if needed.

Also today I got a fancy racing seat and with alittle modification, it will fit perfectly!  Thanks to Udo for the seat!



Now I can really get to work with the roll cage.  That gets priority, everything else can fit around it.
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« Reply #29 on: April 27, 2012, 09:06:47 PM »

I would suggest that you get a copy of the Race car Vehicle Dynamics book by Milliken.  There is a good chapter on the front end geometry that could help you out.  As far as the caster settings some of the more experienced salt racers could make suggestions.  There has been a bit of dicussion of about scrub radius in other threads. but unless you turn a lot near 0 is most likely best.  The same may be said for camber as it also effects the steer geometry.  I am sure the book would be available at some libraries.
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