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Author Topic: New Bike Frame Project  (Read 28331 times)
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55chevr
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« Reply #15 on: April 04, 2012, 07:56:03 PM »



Steering neck ---



40* Rake



Tacked in place

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55chevr
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« Reply #16 on: April 04, 2012, 07:59:56 PM »



There is 2" of travel in the rear axle sliders ... should do most any chain adjustment ... will take up to 4" of chain differential



the resemblance to Oz frame is not an accident.
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Jon
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« Reply #17 on: April 04, 2012, 08:18:28 PM »

Great work & progress Joe, blinked and there was a complete frame shocked

You be riding next week?

Cheers
jon
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55chevr
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« Reply #18 on: April 04, 2012, 08:22:31 PM »

4 tack welds on tubing joints is not recommended for land speed racing.   I need to get my son over to tig it for me.  He worked 4 years on a NASCAR team as a fabricator and he is a skilled welder.   Plus there are a lot more tubes to be cut and fit .   Maybe 2 weeks.

Joe

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« Reply #19 on: April 05, 2012, 12:02:13 AM »

Looking good!!!!
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #20 on: April 05, 2012, 12:36:53 AM »

I like it!!!  cheers cheers cheers

Pete
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« Reply #21 on: April 05, 2012, 01:07:40 AM »

Great job.

Ride safe, fast and forever....
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Ray C Wheeler
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« Reply #22 on: April 05, 2012, 02:04:25 AM »

Joe, how have you locked the steering neck locators in position onto the jig, huh,, nice job, doin well, cheers,,
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55chevr
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« Reply #23 on: April 05, 2012, 06:25:23 AM »

I bought the neck fixture from MechWerks .... the taper cones have a set screw to lock on the shaft.  The neck has a lot of work in it ... the ZX9 Kawasaki bearings have fairly large OD and had to machine out a lot steel from a piece of bar stock .... The rest of the jig I built.   Nice working on a steel table. Leveled the table, then leveled the channel stock rails and tacked them to the table. Same with the neck fixture. Got it plumb and then tacked it into place.   
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« Reply #24 on: April 05, 2012, 03:38:50 PM »

Wow, that looks great Joe!
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« Reply #25 on: April 05, 2012, 04:51:35 PM »

Thanks Joe,, i have built a number of dragbike frames, my steel table jig utilizes a neck holder similar to yours, the difference being that it has a 3/4" piece of Booker Bar (threaded rod), with the neck and locaters in place its just a matter of screwing the nuts in against the locators,,
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« Reply #26 on: April 05, 2012, 06:38:38 PM »

joe,
that looks nice.

do you think it'll be ready for july at limestone?

bill
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
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ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
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'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events -- made a 2 state change in ZIP codes

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55chevr
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« Reply #27 on: April 05, 2012, 07:03:27 PM »

Bill - that is the plan ... I was going to try for Ohio but decided that it wasnt feasible and slowed the project down.   Makes it fun instead of work.

Joe
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« Reply #28 on: April 05, 2012, 07:04:37 PM »

I am quietly watching your build, especially the jig and head post. I plan to make one for my first bike build too.

Thanks for educating me. Your pictures are clear and show the details I need to learn. My appreciation.  cheers

Bill

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55chevr
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« Reply #29 on: April 05, 2012, 07:28:24 PM »

The frame was originally designed by Oz ... I know a good design when I see it ... He was gracious and even sent me some double secret photos of details. I suggest you check his threads "My CBR1000 AF" and "My CBR1000 AF - again".   The jig and post stuff is basic chopper stuff. Simple design and very effective.  It is downsized car chassis jig similar to what Nascar teams use. I have larger jig of similar design under the Model A.  I found that dial levels are a little easier to use than bar levels. A string line is needed to center the rear axle on the steering neck.
Joe 
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