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Author Topic: New Bike Frame Project  (Read 28323 times)
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55chevr
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« on: April 02, 2012, 09:39:14 PM »

I was originally going to use a Z1 type drag frame for the new bike and shoe horn in a newer ZX10 engine. Similar to what I did with the ironhead / evo Buell build. I picked up a 2006 ZX10R engine off Ebay and a dummy engine locally. When I tried to mock up the engine in the frame it reminded me of someone trying to put a jet engine in a biplane.  The design of the new ZX10 isnt compatible with the older aircooled Z1-s.  I was struck by the design that Oz did on his CBR and asked for and was given permission by Oz to use his design.  He also sent me some detailed photos of the engine mounting system ... It is a slick frame design and it has been raced successfully.


Built the jig using 2 - 8' long 2" x 4" steel channels ... 2" x 3" box tubing for the head post


Machined up a steel neck to take stock ZX-9 bearings to match the donor front end.


Deviated slightly from Oz plans by using 1" x 2" box tubing for the axle ... built an engine mount that sets the engine in proper alignment with the rear wheel and sprocket and 3" of ground clearance.

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Tman
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« Reply #1 on: April 02, 2012, 09:54:03 PM »

Looking forward Joe!
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Jon
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« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2012, 10:11:02 PM »

Looking good Joe, will be watching this.

Bit puzzled by the 1" x 2" rhs axle?


Cheers
jon
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2012, 10:25:26 PM »

That is a good idea how you set up the table & etc. to be level and plumb.  You can quickly check its alignment and adjust as needed.  A lot of folks do not do that and it is hard for them to keep everything correct.
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55chevr
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« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2012, 06:21:41 AM »

Looking good Joe, will be watching this.

Bit puzzled by the 1" x 2" rhs axle?


Cheers
jon
Correction 1 x 2 box tubing for the axle mount ... I have axle adjusters from an S1 Buell that I am planning on using.
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Koncretekid
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« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2012, 09:37:23 AM »

I like your frame design, Joe.  I can't tell the profile of the two main tubes, but the one thing on my bike that is a small problem, is the width where my hips and legs must hug the frame to keep my knees tucked in.  Mine is 8" wide and is almost too wide to straddle.  Doing it again, I would narrow it up just a bit more at that point.
Tom


* finished frame on the jig.jpg (273.16 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 357 times.)
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sabat
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« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2012, 10:49:50 AM »

Very cool Joe  cheers
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oz
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« Reply #7 on: April 03, 2012, 11:07:16 AM »

Thats a lovely bit of turning on the neck and locators!! are you going to slot the RHS and use internal adjusters if so make them nice and long for different gearing.I cant tell if they have already been done but good idea to do it before you weld them in.
Cheers Oz
« Last Edit: April 03, 2012, 11:17:44 AM by oz » Logged

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55chevr
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« Reply #8 on: April 03, 2012, 09:08:27 PM »

2 inch slots already done ... the S1 Buell axle adjusters are for 25mm axle which same as the XB9 axle I have from donor parts ...

Joe
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Jon
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« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2012, 11:29:30 PM »

I'm not familiar with Buel chain adjusters, I hunted around for some decent wall thickness RHS for the adjuster I wanted to use.
Then I changed an cut one side out of the RHS and boxed the top bottom and end in when I worked out I wasn't going to get decent clamping until I wound it up tight enough to bend the wall of the RHS.
That and when I worked out I didn't enough room in my body for a Hayabussa width swingarm with the wider style adjusters.

Buel ones may work differently but just thought I'd share in case it helps.


Cheers
jon
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55chevr
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« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2012, 10:10:52 AM »

This is what the Buell axle sliders look like ...


* S1axleA.jpg (32.12 KB, 500x375 - viewed 181 times.)
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oz
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« Reply #11 on: April 04, 2012, 12:39:35 PM »

Should work good but you may want to extend the slots a little and the studs on the adjusters just for a greater range of sprocket combinations, just a thought buddy easier to do now rather than later.
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55chevr
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« Reply #12 on: April 04, 2012, 03:02:54 PM »

I was planning 2" of travel ...

Joe
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DND
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« Reply #13 on: April 04, 2012, 03:49:42 PM »

Hi Joe

Maybe you could get the Dia. of the largest & smallest rear sprockts you would use, and draw it out for how much axle travel you would need .

And modify you adjusters now and know it will work down the road when you change a gear.

Just my 2 c worth.

Looking forward to seeing your bike all done and at Salt City

I too scratch built a frame way back in 72' for a light weight fire road special, using a 386cc Honda 4 valve single that came out 220 lbs ready to fly. It was all .049 chrome moly and nickel plated.

Don
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saltwheels262
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« Reply #14 on: April 04, 2012, 07:15:37 PM »

a different length of chain might work.
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