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Author Topic: Australian Streamliner Bike Build  (Read 195002 times)
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Podunk
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« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2012, 07:38:22 AM »

Jon,
Bike looks great. Really like the way you did the tube ellipses.
Back when I had a job we would test weld penetration by sawing thru weld joint, grinding very smooth then using dye penetrate to see if the weld is sound.
Al Teague had two big lights in the cockpit. Yellow for oil pressure. A heat sensor in the engine bay set off the red one.
Hope you come to Bonneville someday so all us yanks can see the bike first hand.

                                                              Gaday, Terry
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Rex Schimmer
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« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2012, 12:21:01 PM »

Jon,
Are you planning to make a mold off of your plug or are you going to just over lay the plug and then spend lots of time sanding? Might be nice to have a mold, that shape is killer! There might be someone interested in making a lakester with the shape. My guess is NACA 66018 for the shape. As much as Dr Goggles and The Rev give me crap about reading "The Leading Edge" by Tamai my guess is that you may have turned a couple of pages in this book also.

Looks great!
Rex
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Jon
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« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2012, 03:00:09 PM »

Now I know how they must feel at AA  rolleyes

"Hi, my name is Jon & I've read The Leading Edge by Tamai"
It's even worse than that I have bits of pages marked that I reread very now and then.
(shuffle feet uncomfortably and sit down)

Forgive me Goggles, I'm a simple Queenslander (that was born in SA & lived in western NSW for 20+ years so I'm a bit confused.)


Getting to Bonneville oneday is a dream I have Terry, first got to get it built and get it out on the best salt in the world grin hopefully the tide is out next year.

Going to get a decent finish on the plug and take a mold off it Rex, there's only two sorts of streamliner bikes I've been told.
Ones that have fallen over and ones that are going to fallover.

Dave and I kicked around the idea of running the same shell as a lakester but were now coordinated enough to keep twice as many wheels pointed in the right direction.
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Underhouse Engineering
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2012, 03:43:28 PM »

Hey Rex, that's not giving you crap...in fact far from giving, we're taking something.

I always say the same thing about the gospel according to Goro, do not drive a motor vehicle or operate heavy machinery  after reading it.

I would also steer away from making binding agreements or financial decisions too......I can just imagine you blokes frottering yourselves over your favorite pages......... rolleyes rolleyes rolleyes

" The Executor wishes to inform the court and all applicants to the estate that the only realized asset is a copy of Goro Tamai: The Leading Edge"

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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

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Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
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« Reply #19 on: March 15, 2012, 04:52:47 AM »

C'mon Googles your safe here, it's not that hard to say.

"My names is the good Dr Googles and I too have read Tamai's book"
"I still have it here and read it when no-ones is looking"




Not much to look at today, started o the drivers compartment and spent a bit of time working out the angle of the front bar to get max distance in front of my helmet and still meet the 120 degree rule.

From there I could work out the spacing to the next bottom 1/2 ellipse, I want the the base of the front cage hoop to  intersect it;
 

Rolled up a small ellipse for the front.

Knocked off early and went indoor climbing with my kids for a few hours.

Hope to finish tacking up the main bars tomorrow and start working out diagonals.

Jon








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Underhouse Engineering
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Jon
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« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2012, 04:55:12 AM »

Got the rest of the main rails and the front roll hoop tacked in today, looking from front;


We both had a bit of a test fit to see how it was getting back under the front hoop;


We put the mockup front wheel well in after this and feet can go a bit further forward.

Going to put in the bars to tie the roll hoops together then weld it up and start on the diagonals tomorrow.

I have two stupid questions today.

I read that people put all their diagonals in the weld their frame, how do they weld the joint that is under wher the diagonal intersects?
Surely don't leave it unwelded??

How do you get the diagonal in?
Cut one side of the notch off on one end, put the diagonal in and weld the cut off bit back on?

Firesuit and Hans ordered yesterday, checking out yoga classes soon

jon


« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 07:59:36 AM by Jon » Logged

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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #21 on: March 16, 2012, 05:39:17 AM »

Have you hooked up with Roscoe yet?....dunno If I've asked you that?

That bending under the hoop is a great way to incentivize a diet, I've never been winded with so little effort.

Get back to the shed.
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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.
stay`tee
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« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2012, 07:11:02 AM »

 always interesting watching a machine evolve. smiley,

"up yours too Bunji" grin, (last photo)

when Luckie first moved up here, i stored his Little Liner in my garage,, would often sit in it an set the world record, wink,, often thought that if i was to build a liner, too always keep in mind that if a major incident occured, how difficult would it be for the medical attendants to extract the rider, look for ways that may make it that little bit easier,,,
« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 07:32:11 AM by stay`tee » Logged

First Australian to ride a motorcycle over 200mph at Bonneville,,,
Jon
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« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2012, 07:32:06 AM »

always interesting watching a machine evolve. smiley,

"up yours too Bunji" grin, (last photo)



Bloody Dave; does bugger all for the day then flips the bird in a pic.

Hard to get good help  grin

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« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2012, 07:43:42 AM »

I caught up with Ross before I started building, some very nice workmanship there.

Might see if he can come and do first tech inspection when Bones is up this way if I've got enough done to warrant a look.

I'm a bit winky about him inspecting my work after seeing the quality of his, might have to see what he drinks evil shocked.

Went back down the shed to do some measuring, note to self, endmilling tube notches makes sharp cuttings that are attached to bare feet.  undecided

« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 07:46:54 AM by Jon » Logged

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Stainless1
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« Reply #25 on: March 16, 2012, 08:35:45 AM »

Jon, put the inner cockpit liner in as soon as possible so your test fits are closer to real.  the extra 1 1/4 you enjoy all the way around gives ya a false sense of size. 
Looking great, don't think anyone will criticize your work in tech.

The easy way is to weld in diagonals as you go...  cheers
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
Peter Jack
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« Reply #26 on: March 16, 2012, 09:36:07 AM »

That's why you'll often see that the diagonals often go from tube end to tube end instead of corner to corner. This was brought up several years ago on this forum and I know some were cutting off a corner of the diagonal tube and then welding it back on after the diagonal was installed. That's about the only way that everything could be 100% welded because even if you insert the diagonals as you go there's part of the vertical tube can't be welded where it meets the diagonal.

Life and racing are full of compromises.  undecided undecided evil

Pete
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« Reply #27 on: March 16, 2012, 01:10:53 PM »


Hi Jon,

Been following your build thread.  Good on ya!

Your aerodynamics look pretty good.  I might comment however, on the overall size.  I built two complete streamliners that never made it to the salt, the third one did.  Don Vesco was the pilot.  The year 1996.  The main problem was that he couldn't see out of it.  Had to increase the roll bar height by 3".  I used a 21" tall front tire.  For a person to be able to see over the tire, the minimum distance between the inner liner of the cockpit and it's bottom concave, to the top of the roll cage metal cap must be at least 30".  My riders can just barely see over the nose of the Vincent streamliner.  When you check your visibility, make sure you have a current approved helmet, and are fully clothed in fire suit, gloves, boots, and all.  Depends on who you have do your bubble canopy, but distortion is a problem due to the amount of lexan and the thickness you'll be looking through.  This, coupled with abrasion, limits visibility a lot.  Your body shape is similiar to Sam's E-Z Hook.  Sam had to insert a distortion free piece of plexiglass in his bubble lexan before he could see well enough to feel safe at 350+mph.  More than one liner has been built in a garage, and all seemed well as far as visibility, until put on the salt and subjected to real time.  Al Teague, due to his canopy configuration, and depending on the time of day, when suited up in the liner on the line, pointed to the glare area on the canopy, and one of the crew members would put a bit of duct tape on the canopy.  Needless to say, visibility is as important as is the engine being able to fire up.  In either case, if one ain't right, you ain't gonna go nowhere.

                           All the Best,
                              Max
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stwheeler
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« Reply #28 on: March 16, 2012, 02:46:34 PM »

Hi, Here is a picture of Sam's Bike around 1970 maybe 1969 anyway it was deem illegal to run after 1972 or so because he could see forward the tire and steering were in the way, anyway looking at your bike it looks all most like it.  there is a picture of the bike he is running now.



* samwheelerphotoalbum038.jpg (124.96 KB, 686x681 - viewed 253 times.)

* DLAGUE3.jpg (48.69 KB, 640x480 - viewed 240 times.)
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Rex Schimmer
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« Reply #29 on: March 16, 2012, 03:00:28 PM »

Jon,
As Peter said the "easy" way is to not make the diagonal intersect both tubes, but just because it is easy don't make it the right way. If you can't get the tube to fit in then cut one side of the "fish mouth" install the tube and then weld the side of the fish mouth back on. I feel that it is worth the effort as this is a much superior joint both from the stiffness and the strength stand point. Look at the attached link which shows the construction of the a state of the art off road truck and really show how tube structures should be done.

http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php/31417-Something-New!!

Pretty long post but well worth looking through for the information is gives. Good info on TIG welding also.

Love your build ~!!!

Rex
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