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Author Topic: Target 2012? Bonneville Salt Flats Harley KHK...  (Read 8324 times)
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thefrenchowl
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« on: October 09, 2011, 05:18:02 PM »

Hi again everyone...

Since Speed Week 2011 is now just good memories, I start another thread... It'll be a tall order to finance another trip to the States, but I will use the KHK in GB, plenty of short and long sprints around all year long... And you never know, I want to give the Salt Flats another go but it's too early at this stage to make any predictions...

The KHK took nearly 3 weeks to come back in GB from Phoenix for reasons unknown but it's now in the garage and I've started sorting a few items. For various reasons, make it a bit more user friendly, safer and, main reason, cause I can't help tinkering with things...

On my one and only rookie run in August (which by the way, was its 1st ever run... and the only 2 miles and a bit I've done on a bike this year ...) it started slowing down once I passed the 2 mile marker. Don't know for sure why but had a guess it started leaning out... So 1st mod was to fit a bigger stainless line to the carb, from 3/8 to 1/2 inch...







Ridind position was a bit cramped to say the least so I dropped down the footpegs a touch, OK on the right hand side, but it meant a new brake pedal on the left hand side, made from tubing pinched on my wife's bicycle frame...





See you all around, Patrick

Previous post: http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,8744.0.html

 
« Last Edit: October 09, 2011, 05:22:23 PM by thefrenchowl » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2011, 09:21:10 PM »

I like the foot pegs ... I need to drop mine a couple of inches and this looks like it would do the trick ///  good stuff

Joe
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peterdallan
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2011, 01:39:11 PM »

Patrick,
             Are you planning to return to Bonneville in 2012?

How's the hand?

Peter
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thefrenchowl
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« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2011, 07:20:01 AM »

Hi Peter,

Well, I've spent my last buck to get there this year, so 1st, I'm thinking how to raise a lot of cash before making any plans of returning to the Salt Flats!!!

The hand's OK now, not even a scar, just slight different color where the burn was...

Back to modifying the bike, rebored the valve, done the new methanol line, drawn a new carb inlet fitting with more area. Examined the carb carefully, the needle was hardly uncovering the intake slots when fully seated. Raised it as much as 3mm to get a better opening!!!





On my 1st rookie run attempt, the clutch cable broke on the start line!!! Luckily, Corey, a friend of Jim and the purveyor of our methanol, lent us a clutch cable from his 68CH rebuilt, but it was way too long... So now's the time to shorten it and improve the retaining nipple on the lever...





Also had to do another lanyard tube piece for the handlebar throttle, the 1st one lost on the salt somewhere during my burn episode...



All the best from Patrick


« Last Edit: October 15, 2011, 07:27:29 AM by thefrenchowl » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: October 15, 2011, 10:10:18 AM »

We run a S&S carb. on our Busa/Turbo sidecar (on petrol) and a couple of years ago when we increased the boost we were sucking the carb. bowl dry at about 2 miles into the run.......we used a additional S&S bowl off another carb. put that bowl in series with the carb. bowl......
Voila...fixed the problem........................
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thefrenchowl
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« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2011, 11:39:08 AM »

Hi Bak,

Yes, was thinking on the same lines... Classic Bike Show at the end of this month, will be on the look out for an old SU chamber or something similar.

Picked up the new inlet fitting this morning...

Drawing:



New on top, OEM on bottom, nearly 100 % increase in area:



Fitted...



Other work done, longer screws on exhaust clamps, sick of the OEM short bolts!!! These new ones are WL oil pump screws...





Fairing screen broke both its ends, so a bit of grinding to refresh...



Next bit will be harder, thinking of how to convert belt drive pulley so I can fit an electric starter straight on the crank end...



Also put the water float chamber on the frame, t'was fixed on the seat cowl, a bit of a pain when I had to pull the seat off...



That's all for now, folks,

Patrick
« Last Edit: October 15, 2011, 11:41:19 AM by thefrenchowl » Logged

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« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2011, 11:53:58 PM »

Patrick, look in the English magazine "Classic Bike Guide" on page 61 in the lower center.  There you are.  It is the Sept 2011 issue.  We are just getting it now.  They put the magazines destined to America on a slow boat. 
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thefrenchowl
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« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2011, 04:36:13 PM »

Thanks, wobblywalrus, I'll be on the look out for that issue... I suppose that's at the Festival of 1000 Bikes, I remember talking to some journalist there...

In the mean time, I went into the primary to retreive the supercharger drive to investigate further the lecky starter mods...

Found this!!!





Looks like an early failure, when I was trying to get the clutch to work with the cable arriving on the top, not OEM position!!! It still worked OK, apart from a few steel shavings inside the cover...

About an hour to sort this mess and find 2 new nuts in the draws...



Now that I know the belt works OK, I narrowed down the guard, I did make it too wide to start with just in case I might have needed a wider belt...



See you around, Patrick 
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Nortonist 592
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« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2011, 10:28:45 PM »


Next bit will be harder, thinking of how to convert belt drive pulley so I can fit an electric starter straight on the crank end...




Patrick,  I don't know how that pulley is locked onto the shaft and I'm assuming its the crank.  On my sidecar the sprocket is retained by a large circlip.  I used the sprocket for starting.  In order to clear the circlip I machined an alloy spacer and drilled the sprocket for four 1/4" bolts.  I used a piece of 20g. with a large hex head welded on to it.  Could something like that be machined up to fit the blower pulley?  The starter has a matching socket fitted.  The starter itself is from a Dodge pickup.  It is internally gear reduced.  Which was necessary for bumping a 14:1 single over compression.  Photos are better at expaining than me.  So here's a couple.




By weslake at 2011-10-30


By weslake at 2011-10-30
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« Reply #9 on: October 31, 2011, 02:56:34 AM »

Hi Nortonist and thanks for the pictures, (with apologies for not replying earlier to your helpful mail on that very subject...)

You're driving the crank without a ratchet, no problems when disengaging once engine has started?

My pulley attaches to a machined spacer that bolts onto/inside the drive sprocket, the 4 pegs and 2 allen bolts. The big diameter with the 2 flats hides the sprocket nut. Intermediate OD after that is 25mm for ball bearing and oil seal that sit on the primary cover via alloy holder...

But the pulley hole is only 17mm, a bit light in me eyes... Looking at welding a turned piece on it so I can increase the spacer OD at the end to 24mm. Ratchet would be machined on the face of this add on...



Patrick
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« Reply #10 on: October 31, 2011, 04:00:06 AM »

Hi Patrick,
Use something like a Toyota HiLux (Nippon Denso) starter motor which has a sprag clutch built into the drive gearbox.
Used to do this on my Funny Bike....


HTH
Neil
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« Reply #11 on: October 31, 2011, 09:57:39 AM »

Re: starter handles - looks like spaced to get a good 2-handed grip to resist torque while cranking, but leverage is limited by handle radius.
If the arms were made like jack stands (with telescoping section and push-pin), one could be extended until it was at a shallow angle (mechanical advantage to use the bike's weight) and touched the floor to free one hand.
The other handle arm is re-aligned (like to 90 apart?) and extended so you could hold it while standing.
Telly them back for storage.

Just a thought , haven't tried it - am I missing something?
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« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2011, 10:10:53 AM »

The disadvantage of having one handle / torque arm touching the floor is that the torque could possibly move the bike.
My setup has the handle / torque arm resting against a lug on the frame. This way, no movement of the bike when starting.  Always be prepared for a kick-back or backfire.
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« Reply #13 on: October 31, 2011, 10:16:03 AM »

True - if you know your chassis, locking one side works best.
I figured if the "down" handle was long enough and low angle the leverage would be enough.
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thefrenchowl
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« Reply #14 on: October 31, 2011, 01:27:02 PM »

 grin grin Saw in the past some Indy 500 Museum guys starting big Offy Roadsters with inertia starters with about 5 feet torque arms on each side... They didn't prevent the cars jumping up and down like crazy while another guy was, hood open, squirting methanol in the trumpets and working the throttle linkage!!! Some sight, on its own, the rising high pitch scream of the inertia flywheel was enough to make your eyes water cool...

Thinking about it, it makes sense to have the torque arm resting somehow on the frame!!!

Patrick
« Last Edit: October 31, 2011, 01:34:22 PM by thefrenchowl » Logged

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