getting salt out of electrical components...

[entropy]

I just did my 1st event, WOS on a Suzuki a couple weeks ago, and now i am facing the salt corrosion issues my salty buddies advised me of.

I removed the wiring harness with all sensors, relays, batteries, subsystem controllers, etc yesterday and now am looking for a treatment to minimize salt related corrosion.

In cogitating on this problem, I think of my successful treatment of 2 cells phones dropped into dirty water filled gutters by my wife & daughter.

We removed the cell battery, repeatedly dunked the phones in distilled water, then immediately dunked them in high % alcohol to pull out the water.  After air drying both phones worked fine.

Could this also be done with motorcycle electrical components?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Karl

[hotrod]

I have heard of similar treatments being used to save amateur radio gear soaked by salt water during hurricanes.
You just need to be absolutely sure that they are completely dry before you power them back up.

When you have finished the dunking processes and thoroughly air dried, a final baking in a heated oven can get the final traces of moisture out.
At our electronics shop we had a ventilated oven that would bake components at about 150 degrees that we could use for tasks like that, you could build a similar home built oven by using a couple incandescent light bulbs to warm the interior of a large box that had entry holes in the bottom and top so there was a continuous flow of air through the box. This will ensure the humidity of the air flow stays very low and pulls any moisture cooked out of the components out of the box with the air flow.

Some electrical varnishes might not like long exposure to high proof alcohol so I would make that step as brief as you can prudently make it.

Larry

[jww36]

Karl;
I have a product called 12/34. It is a 14 OZ. spray can, and is the most amazing product I have ever used in my shop. It removes moisture, prevents rust, penetrates and lubricates, hence the name 12/34. More importantly, when applied to electrical and electronic equipment, it protects all circuits, contacts and switches. It will not interfere with the circuits or operations of the equipment.
It is also harmless to paint, plastics, rubber or fabrics. It dries wet ignitions and contains no silicon.
It costs $14 per can, so it's not cheap. But if you look at  per cost application, you're looking at 1 or 2 cents per use.
 So sure am I of this products capabilities, I will not only refund your $14, I will pay your return shipping if not satisfied. I will also donate a portion of each can sold to support Landracing.com.
John

[entropy]

John & Larry,

Thanks much for the rapid reponses.
 
With your info i will do a test:
1. repeated dunking in large volume distilled water, remove most salt
maybe do it in 2 stages, 2nd bucket of cleaner water for 2nd set of dunks.

2. dunk in hi% alcohol, remove most water
Q: denatured alcohol @ $17/gal or VP M-1 race alcohol @ $5/gal???

3. heat to 130-150F for 8? hours

4. treat with 12/34
John, could you please send me a link to yr shop so I can get a few cans??

I am new to Bonneville, but one wicked 180mph tail wagging experience won't stop me from going back in 2012 for 2 events!

Karl

[fredvance]

Karl, which 2 events??

[jww36]

Karl;
You can email me @ Redhunter1936@aol.com.
Thanks,
John
Link to my shop is www.CuttingEdgeMetalSpecialties.com.

[entropy]

Karl, which 2 events??

Fred,
After talking w/you and Ryan, I was thinking of Speedweek & WOS.

[fredvance]

I dont think either of us will be going to SW 2012.

[Dean Los Angeles]

It's the old story where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Going the extra mile to seal EVERYTHING in advance of use is worth the effort.

The damage from corrosion is pretty quick. By the time you get home a lot of damage is done, and can't be undone.

Water works it's way into places that you can't get it back out. I have seen relays with clear plastic housings that resisted every effort to remove the water. 3 days in a 150 oven and it still had fog inside.

Water and salt will migrate a long way up stranded wires. Remove the insulation and you will find corrosion much further than you thought. Ask the guys that repair the 18 miles of cable from Bonneville timing.

Good luck.

[JamesJ]

4. treat with 12/34
John, could you please send me a link to yr shop so I can get a few cans??

http://www.jetlubecanada.com/pages/1234.html

[entropy]

4. treat with 12/34
John, could you please send me a link to yr shop so I can get a few cans??

http://www.jetlubecanada.com/pages/1234.html

James, thanks for the note, 

[firemanjim]

If you are looking in the US for 12/34, it is called 769,same product number,37341.

[jww36]

One of the other qualities of 12/34 is it is not flammable, so you can't use it to inflate tires! (See "WD-40 Tire Inflation" on You Tube).
I believe Jetlube Canada is the Canadian distributor for 12/34.
John

[jacksoni]

John & Larry,

2. dunk in hi% alcohol, remove most water
Q: denatured alcohol @ $17/gal or VP M-1 race alcohol @ $5/gal???

Remember denatured alcohol is generally ethanol with something not palatable/poisonous in it to prevent people from drinking it. May have solvent properties different from pure alcohol you should test for. Grain alcohol is 95% (rest mostly being water I think) is available or used to be in some liquor stores.  "pure" lab grade alcohol which is really what you want is more difficult to come by. Lab supply houses but the feds are in the act for alcohol tax etc and may require special license etc. 

Race alcohol is methanol, may have different solvent properties and is poisonous. 10 cc can  make you go blind, more can kill you.  and can be absorbed some through the skin so be careful handling it. ( ie don't dip your parts with an un protected hand)

I have been using some stuff called Salt Away from local boat store. Seems to work but you do have to get after it early as noted above.

[Buickguy3]

   I didn't know what the previous posts were referring to. I have used Jet Lube for years. It is different than WD-4- in that it is a lubricant and a moisture displacer. I get mine from Reliable Distributing in Montana at [406] 259-4786. Talk to Terry, he's the he's the owner/former Alcohol dragster driver. Very knowledgable on lubrication products. [and British M/C stuff].
Doug